Summer 2024 Vidcast // TOD’s: The Right Time ?
Portrait of a fashion enterprise
A fascinating profile of the TOD company and its current course in the face of investors and stock market positions.
WEBVTT
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Welcome to this Vidcast, which is devoted to Tots.
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Tots is a very well-known brand name, Italian brand name.
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In the shoe industry, the company is experiencing some risks
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and difficulties and wants to reinforce
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and restructure its capital, so it's going
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to welcome the R no family indirectly
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through LVMH Mu with ton
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and directly through a private equity fund, El Catton,
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but for the are no family is it the right moment
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to invest in Todds?
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Todds is really a family story. Philippo de Valle.
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Initially a shoemaker created a company in 1920.
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Then he run the business
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and he developed it throughout the decades.
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In the 1950s, there is a disruption in the business,
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which is invention of the stiletto, the Stiletto Hill.
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It's going to really change the shoe industry.
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Now, seventies, eighties,
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and nineties are a period
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of international expansion for Tots.
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In 1978, the brand name Tots is created.
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It's going to be followed by Faye
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and Hogan respectively in 1986 and 88.
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The company is very well known for its moccasin with spikes,
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with peacocks
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and it's not exactly luxury, high-end luxury of any kind
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of luxury, but it's casual chic
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and a number of very well known people in the royalties
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or anywhere else are going to wear.
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Thoughts. Lady Diana Princess, car of Monaco, king,
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Juan, Carlos, Johnny.
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Annually in the business
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and a number of Hollywood people, they are going to
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transform this brand into something which is widely known.
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The company is also going to use the help of very recognized
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and well-known designers such as Carl Lagerfeld for Hogan.
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In order to finance its expansion
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and its development, the company is going
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to be listed on the Milano stock exchange in 2000.
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At that time, the revenues are exceeding 220 million
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euros and the company is generating its revenues throughout
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68 points of sales.
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Thoughts at that time represents almost 60% of the revenues
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and even though the company decided to go abroad,
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Italy still represents more than half of the revenues.
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The EBITDA margin is absolutely significant
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with almost 26% of revenues,
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57 million euros.
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The company is going to issue shares after the IPO.
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There are 30 million shares
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and these shares are offered at 40 euros per share,
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which basically means the market value of equity
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of 1.2 billion euros
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that de Valley family retains.
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The control weighs about 73%
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of the shares post IPO.
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As far as the stock price is concerned,
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this tuition is not very glorious.
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Today in 2024,
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the stock prices is 34 euros per share.
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Before the offer made by the Arnold family multiplied
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by a number of shares outstanding,
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which is higher than when the company was listed.
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The market capitalization is still 1.2 billion euros,
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but with a lower stock price.
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In the meantime, the revenues were multiplied by five.
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Total sales today is more than 1.1 billion euros,
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but if the revenues were multiplied by five, the number
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of points of sales was multiplied by more than five
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with 444 points of sales.
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Now what does it mean? It means that the revenues per point
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of sale is down from 3.6 million to 2.5 million
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euros per point of sales,
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and in the meantime there was some inflation.
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What about the EBITDA margin?
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It's lower than when the company was listed.
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It was 25 point something.
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Today it's 22 point something percent of revenues,
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so the EBITDA is still quite high,
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especially when you consider
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that the capital expenditures represent four
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to 5% of revenues.
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The free cashflow is still quite high,
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but if the stock price is lower than when the capital was
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listed, when in the meantime the revenues were multiplied
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by five, it means that there is a matter of trust,
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of credibility, of ability to secure the future.
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This is what is in the minds of investors today.
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Now, you should not believe
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that the stock price was quite stable
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around 40 euros per share during the whole period.
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In fact, during a few years up to the beginning
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of the subprime crisis, the stock prices fluctuating
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around 40 euros per share.
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The subprime crisis is going to be good news for tots
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because the company's going to show a fantastic resilience
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while the economy is collapsing, the company's revenues
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and profits are up.
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The consequences that the stock price
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of the company is go is skyrocketing
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and is going to reach In 20 12, 20 13, a maximum
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of 140 euros
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and since then there was a dramatic drop in the stock price.
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The company is experiencing problems in its revenues,
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in its profitability
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and from 20 12 20 13 down
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to 20 17, 20 18, the stock price is going
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to go down from 140 to 40 fluctuating since then.
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Now that was the evolution of thoughts,
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stock price standing alone.
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What about benchmarking thoughts against a
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Milano stock exchange?
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The MIB 30 stock market index,
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if you look at the last five years, there are two periods,
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one period from five years ago to end of 2022,
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more or less thoughts
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and MIB are moving in the same direction.
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Sometimes there is a correlation, sometimes not,
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but if you look at what happened to Todd's stock price
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starting at the end of 2022 up to today, its stabilization.
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In the meantime, the stock market index was up
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by about 65%, so the G correlation is very big
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and it is not very favorable For tots.
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That was about the story of the company
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and its stock market performance.
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Let's now deep dive into the economics of this company.
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The company is selling three segments, shoes, leather goods
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and appel.
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The relative share of each
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and every segment is quite stable throughout the years.
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If you look at the last 10 years,
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shoes represent a bit less, a bit more, a bit less than 80%.
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Apparel is lower than 10
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and leather goods between 10 and 20.
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Throughout the years it's quite stable.
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What is not stable is the evolution of revenues.
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If you look at the evolution of revenues,
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it was about 1,000,000,010 years ago.
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It went up in 2015
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and then started to go down gradually year
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after year up to 2019.
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Of course in 2020 there's a major drop in the revenues
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by 30% because of the covid pandemic, a kind
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of recovery in 2021.
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Now the company is back to 1 billion in 2022,
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which is good news, but this is just a recovery.
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2023 is a very good year with an increase in the revenues
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by more than 10%, so the company is
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bouncing back at least in the revenues.
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Interestingly, the EB EBITDA is following the same path
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while second half of the 2010.
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The revenues are gradually down.
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The current ebitda, a percentage to revenue is also down.
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It was about 20% in 2014.
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It's down to about 13% in 2018.
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There's a major increase in 2019
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for very simple reason, which is IFRS 16.
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The rents which were paid
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by the company were no more considered
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as a cash operating expense in the calculation of the EBDA.
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But now these rents are capitalized in the balance sheet.
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The right of use assets
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and the rents are transferred from cash operating expenses
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to amortization
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and then as a consequence the EBDA is going to be up,
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but it's completely an illusion.
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2020 it's down to 5%
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and then there is a kind of recovery of the EBDA,
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which is today 2220 3%, but take care
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because now there is no rent in the EBDA calculation.
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This is why it's quite interesting
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to look at the operating expenses item by item
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cost of raw materials.
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10 years ago it was about 30%
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and today it's a bit less than 25%.
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So the cost of raw materials as a percentage
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to revenues is down.
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Is it due to the fact that raw materials are less expensive
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or to the fact that they put less quality raw materials in
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the shoes or to the fact that they increase the revenues
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and the selling prices more than the cost of raw materials?
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It's an open question,
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but what is interesting is if you look at the external
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expenses, what they name cost of services,
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it's up from a little bit less to 25 to almost 30%.
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So what was gained in the cost
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of raw materials is lost in the cost of services.
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What is very interesting to observe is the evolution
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of staff personal cost.
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Personal cost was about 16% 10 years ago
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and then it went up to 30% in 2020.
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Of course it's exaggerated because uh, revenues are down,
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but the year before it was 23%, then it went down to 23
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and today it's about 22 to 23.
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So there is a major increase in the personal costs in the
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labor related expenses.
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Now what about the occupancy costs?
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The occupancy costs are down in 2019
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because of IFRS.
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Now, if you confront depreciation
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and amortization throughout the years
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and occupancy costs, you remember
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that one is replaced by the other.
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At the end of the day, there is no change.
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We have looked at the evolution of the EBD as a percentage
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to revenues mentioning that there is a problem of trade off
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between rents and depreciation.
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Now this trade off does not show in the calculation
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of the ebit either it's rent or depreciation,
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but it is an operating expense.
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Now if you look at the evolution of EBIT out of revenues,
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the return on sales, it's down
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and it's down from 2014
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to 20 18, 20 19 down from 15
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to about 10%.
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Of course there will be a major drop in 2020 again
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because of the pandemic and then the return on sales is up,
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but today it's about 8%, so it's roughly the same figure
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as in 2018,
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but much less than 2014.
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Interestingly, the current EBIT
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and the EBIT are quite the same, which means
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that in this company there's not kind
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of exceptional items which are taken into account.
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The calculation of the return on sales
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after having described the evolution
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of the commercial profitability is a return on sales,
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nice time to turn to the assets turnovers,
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the assets productivity.
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Then we'll be able to combine one
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and the other, multiply one by the other.
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We will get the return capital employed, which confronted
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with the work tells us if the company's performing or not.
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As far as assets turnover, let's start
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with the current assets minus current liability is a working
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capital requirement.
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The cash conversion cycle is very interesting
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to observe throughout the years.
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If you look at the last 10 years,
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accounts receivable is quite constant.
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It's a little bit more than 30 days of revenue, 30 days
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of sales, which is quite low for a very good reason.
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You generate direct sales direct to customers.
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So customers are paying cash in the points of sales.
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Accounts payable is about 60 days, so you understand
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that receivables being less than payable.
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The difference between these two is contributing
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to the financing of the inventory level,
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but the inventories are very high.
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More than 130 dayss of revenues
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and inventory is in the balance sheet.
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It's not a matter of revenue, it's a matter
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of production cost.
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So you understand that the company has a huge level
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of inventories, which is quite normal in the business,
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which is maybe not exactly luxury,
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but close to that the casual chic.
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So at the end of the day, the cash conversion cycle is up.
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Throughout the years it was about 100 days in 2014
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00:13:41.465 --> 00:13:43.715
it's now 120 days.
261
00:13:43.895 --> 00:13:47.315
So there is a deterioration of the cash conversion cycle,
262
00:13:47.605 --> 00:13:50.395
which has a negative impact on the asset's productivity.
263
00:13:51.705 --> 00:13:53.355
Once we have observed the evolution
264
00:13:53.355 --> 00:13:56.915
of the cash conversion cycle, which is not that positive,
265
00:13:57.285 --> 00:14:00.155
let's have a look at the non-current assets, productivity,
266
00:14:01.025 --> 00:14:03.955
non-current means tangibles and intangibles.
267
00:14:04.155 --> 00:14:06.475
Tangibles is about property, plant and equipment
268
00:14:07.095 --> 00:14:08.955
and there you have a kind of good news
269
00:14:09.505 --> 00:14:13.555
because the companies revenues divided by property plant
270
00:14:13.555 --> 00:14:17.875
and equipment is up from 4.5 in 2014
271
00:14:18.465 --> 00:14:22.075
gradually up to 2020 and significantly up
272
00:14:22.105 --> 00:14:25.875
because today one Euro invested in manufacturing
273
00:14:26.595 --> 00:14:29.835
generates almost eight euros of revenues.
274
00:14:30.295 --> 00:14:32.835
So this is quite good news about the industrial
275
00:14:33.055 --> 00:14:34.835
and manufacturing productivity.
276
00:14:35.695 --> 00:14:39.275
Now, if you divide the revenues by the intangible assets,
277
00:14:39.715 --> 00:14:43.435
goodwill brands consequence of acquisition, you understand
278
00:14:43.435 --> 00:14:45.835
that something happened in 2016
279
00:14:45.835 --> 00:14:47.755
because it dramatically went down.
280
00:14:47.855 --> 00:14:51.245
It is a consequence of an acquisition which I am going
281
00:14:51.245 --> 00:14:52.525
to explain a little bit later.
282
00:14:53.265 --> 00:14:54.765
Now, if you combine non Karen
283
00:14:54.865 --> 00:14:57.725
and Karen assets working capital requirement,
284
00:14:57.745 --> 00:14:59.205
you get the assets turnover.
285
00:15:00.065 --> 00:15:03.685
The assets turnover was 1.5 at the beginning of this period.
286
00:15:04.025 --> 00:15:07.885
It went down in 2016 as a consequence of the acquisition
287
00:15:08.465 --> 00:15:11.125
to one and then it stabilized
288
00:15:11.225 --> 00:15:14.965
and went down to 0.4, 0.5
289
00:15:15.065 --> 00:15:18.645
and to the 0.6, not because of the acquisition but
290
00:15:18.645 --> 00:15:22.085
because of the deterioration of the cash conversion cycle.
291
00:15:22.945 --> 00:15:27.365
If you calculate an asset turnover excluding the goodwill
292
00:15:27.365 --> 00:15:29.725
and brands, you get exactly to the same conclusion
293
00:15:30.035 --> 00:15:31.885
because if you exclude brands
294
00:15:31.905 --> 00:15:34.845
and goodwill, what happens in 2016?
295
00:15:34.845 --> 00:15:39.045
Nothing though the assets turnover excluding goodwill
296
00:15:39.045 --> 00:15:42.485
and brands is quite stable up to 2017
297
00:15:42.785 --> 00:15:46.725
and then is going to gradually deteriorate as a consequence
298
00:15:46.785 --> 00:15:49.965
of the cash conversion cycle, which is deteriorating.
299
00:15:50.335 --> 00:15:54.845
Again, as a conclusion, you observe a deterioration
300
00:15:54.905 --> 00:15:56.765
of the cash conversion cycle
301
00:15:57.625 --> 00:16:01.245
and also an increase in the intangible assets, goodwill
302
00:16:01.245 --> 00:16:06.085
and brands without any corresponding increase in the sales
303
00:16:06.385 --> 00:16:07.445
and in the revenues.
304
00:16:08.065 --> 00:16:11.365
Two bad news, the assets turnover is down.
305
00:16:12.845 --> 00:16:14.945
Now we can combine the return on sales
306
00:16:15.245 --> 00:16:18.305
and the assets turnover, multiplying one by the other.
307
00:16:18.365 --> 00:16:21.905
We get the DuPont formula, the return on capital employed,
308
00:16:22.565 --> 00:16:26.945
the return capital employed was more than 20% in 2014.
309
00:16:27.485 --> 00:16:31.105
You remember at that time the stock price was at its maximum
310
00:16:31.965 --> 00:16:35.105
and it started gradually getting down
311
00:16:35.335 --> 00:16:39.745
because both return on sales and assets turnover went down.
312
00:16:40.775 --> 00:16:44.625
Obviously in 2020 the return capital is dramatically
313
00:16:45.265 --> 00:16:47.745
negative because of the covid pandemic.
314
00:16:48.015 --> 00:16:52.505
Then it's going to go to breakeven in 21, getting up in 22,
315
00:16:52.575 --> 00:16:54.145
getting up in 23,
316
00:16:54.805 --> 00:16:59.665
but the return capital employed is today 6% before tax.
317
00:17:00.175 --> 00:17:02.545
Obviously it does not pay the whack,
318
00:17:02.805 --> 00:17:05.305
so the company is not performing on a
319
00:17:05.305 --> 00:17:06.465
financial point of view.
320
00:17:08.475 --> 00:17:11.485
Same of evolution of return on investment as opposed
321
00:17:11.485 --> 00:17:12.885
to return capital employed.
322
00:17:13.635 --> 00:17:15.365
What differentiates return on investment
323
00:17:15.505 --> 00:17:17.045
and return capital is
324
00:17:17.045 --> 00:17:19.245
that in the return on investment you exclude
325
00:17:19.485 --> 00:17:20.845
goodwill and brand.
326
00:17:21.305 --> 00:17:25.165
Though what happens of course in 2016 the rose is down
327
00:17:25.165 --> 00:17:26.365
because of the acquisition,
328
00:17:26.745 --> 00:17:29.805
but in the meantime the return investment is also down
329
00:17:30.075 --> 00:17:31.125
year after year.
330
00:17:31.955 --> 00:17:33.685
Then it's going to be strongly negative
331
00:17:33.905 --> 00:17:35.605
and it's going to be recovering.
332
00:17:36.305 --> 00:17:39.725
But at the end of the day in 2023,
333
00:17:40.225 --> 00:17:42.525
the return capital again is 6%.
334
00:17:42.665 --> 00:17:45.685
The return investment is hardly 8%.
335
00:17:46.425 --> 00:17:49.365
So even though you don't take into account the goodwill
336
00:17:49.585 --> 00:17:52.925
and the brand which is accounted starting in 2016,
337
00:17:53.185 --> 00:17:57.165
the company is not profitable even if you take only the
338
00:17:57.165 --> 00:17:59.525
manufacturing and the economic
339
00:17:59.625 --> 00:18:02.125
and the operating performance of the group.
340
00:18:03.905 --> 00:18:07.525
Now, what happened in 2016, the continuation
341
00:18:07.605 --> 00:18:08.685
of the family story,
342
00:18:09.305 --> 00:18:12.645
the company is acquiring a very well-known brand in the
343
00:18:12.645 --> 00:18:14.725
luxury business, not casualty,
344
00:18:14.945 --> 00:18:17.405
really luxury business in shoe industry.
345
00:18:18.005 --> 00:18:22.805
Raje, Vivier, they pay 415 million euros
346
00:18:22.865 --> 00:18:26.165
for the brand who is selling the brand?
347
00:18:26.405 --> 00:18:30.605
A company whose name is Guam consult in marketing,
348
00:18:31.175 --> 00:18:33.645
which is a company limited liability company.
349
00:18:34.555 --> 00:18:35.565
What is Guam?
350
00:18:35.795 --> 00:18:37.805
Guan is the de Val family
351
00:18:38.355 --> 00:18:41.965
because the owners of the company are Andrea, the brother
352
00:18:41.985 --> 00:18:46.365
and Diego de Valle, Diego de la Vals, CCEO of Todds
353
00:18:47.315 --> 00:18:50.005
Guun is going to reinvest half of the amount,
354
00:18:50.145 --> 00:18:54.845
207000000.5 euros in an equity issue,
355
00:18:54.845 --> 00:18:57.605
which is going to be made by Todds.
356
00:18:58.385 --> 00:19:02.165
If Todds had experience at observe an increase in its debt
357
00:19:02.185 --> 00:19:06.325
by 400 million, the balance sheet would have been deed.
358
00:19:06.625 --> 00:19:09.085
So as American equity is used for half of the price
359
00:19:09.385 --> 00:19:11.685
and the increased debt for the other half of the price,
360
00:19:12.185 --> 00:19:13.565
the capital increase is going
361
00:19:13.565 --> 00:19:17.605
to be made at the price which is 83.5 euros per share,
362
00:19:17.605 --> 00:19:20.485
which is twice as much as a current stock price.
363
00:19:21.385 --> 00:19:23.925
But you understand that it is a D Vale family
364
00:19:24.535 --> 00:19:27.285
which is buying from the D Vale family
365
00:19:28.145 --> 00:19:31.125
and that's a little bit a question in terms
366
00:19:31.125 --> 00:19:35.325
of financial governance and potential conflict of interest.
367
00:19:35.635 --> 00:19:38.045
It's really an issue in terms of credibility.
368
00:19:40.265 --> 00:19:42.675
It's always interesting to confirm the evolution
369
00:19:42.675 --> 00:19:44.315
of the return on capital employed
370
00:19:44.615 --> 00:19:46.355
and the evolution of the market to book,
371
00:19:46.355 --> 00:19:49.635
which is a stock market Credibility of the company market
372
00:19:49.695 --> 00:19:50.835
to book is calculated.
373
00:19:50.915 --> 00:19:53.635
Dividing the enterprise value by the capital employed
374
00:19:54.145 --> 00:19:55.275
capital employee is
375
00:19:55.275 --> 00:19:57.235
how much you invested in business operations
376
00:19:57.895 --> 00:20:00.915
and enterprise value is the value of that market.
377
00:20:00.915 --> 00:20:02.995
Capital plus net financial debt
378
00:20:03.935 --> 00:20:07.755
and you observe always a kind of parallel evolution
379
00:20:07.895 --> 00:20:09.915
of rose and market book.
380
00:20:10.185 --> 00:20:13.035
It's true for any company including thoughts.
381
00:20:13.655 --> 00:20:16.995
The market book of the company was almost four times
382
00:20:17.895 --> 00:20:18.995
in 2014.
383
00:20:19.775 --> 00:20:22.795
In 2020 is down to about one.
384
00:20:23.425 --> 00:20:26.315
It's going to go up a little bit in 2021
385
00:20:26.575 --> 00:20:29.195
and today, 20 23, 20 24
386
00:20:29.255 --> 00:20:31.555
before the offer made by the Arnold family.
387
00:20:31.745 --> 00:20:34.075
It's about one. So there's no good will
388
00:20:34.335 --> 00:20:35.875
and there is no bad will.
389
00:20:35.875 --> 00:20:37.795
The company is evaluated exactly
390
00:20:38.375 --> 00:20:39.715
at the level which is the amount
391
00:20:39.715 --> 00:20:41.835
of money invested in the business operations.
392
00:20:44.065 --> 00:20:47.285
Once you have observed that the dynamics of the rose
393
00:20:47.425 --> 00:20:49.565
and the market to book are quite the same.
394
00:20:50.075 --> 00:20:52.325
It's also interesting to calculate the market
395
00:20:52.425 --> 00:20:54.565
to book theoretical market to book.
396
00:20:55.045 --> 00:20:56.965
Assuming there is no growth in the free cash flow.
397
00:20:57.515 --> 00:21:00.565
It's simply the rose after tax divided by the wa
398
00:21:01.065 --> 00:21:03.605
and you confirm this theoretical market book
399
00:21:03.635 --> 00:21:06.125
with the actual market book to try
400
00:21:06.125 --> 00:21:08.045
to figure out if there is any potential
401
00:21:08.645 --> 00:21:11.245
increase in a rose in the stock price
402
00:21:11.905 --> 00:21:13.885
and this is exactly what we can observe.
403
00:21:14.545 --> 00:21:16.485
If you look at the rose after tax
404
00:21:16.985 --> 00:21:19.445
and you compare that with the wac, you understand
405
00:21:19.445 --> 00:21:21.205
that the rose after tax divided
406
00:21:21.265 --> 00:21:24.005
by the wack is less than one, which is
407
00:21:24.235 --> 00:21:26.525
what should be the market to book.
408
00:21:26.765 --> 00:21:29.685
Assuming there's no growth, you get a figure which is about
409
00:21:29.685 --> 00:21:31.285
0.5, 0.6.
410
00:21:31.465 --> 00:21:34.485
The actual market to book is more than one, which means
411
00:21:34.485 --> 00:21:36.605
that the market probably anticipates
412
00:21:36.605 --> 00:21:38.045
that there is a value in the brands
413
00:21:38.065 --> 00:21:40.325
and there's a potential for rebound.
414
00:21:42.225 --> 00:21:43.765
So the financial performance
415
00:21:43.765 --> 00:21:45.085
and the stock price evolution,
416
00:21:45.155 --> 00:21:47.005
it's not very much about good news,
417
00:21:47.665 --> 00:21:50.125
but there will be a threat which is going
418
00:21:50.125 --> 00:21:53.605
to show on stage a yearly family.
419
00:21:53.945 --> 00:21:55.165
So the holding of the family,
420
00:21:55.165 --> 00:21:59.125
which is named Xor in 2021 is investing
421
00:21:59.955 --> 00:22:03.245
541 million euros
422
00:22:03.585 --> 00:22:08.325
to buy 24% of the Christian Boutta brand.
423
00:22:09.325 --> 00:22:13.005
Boutta is a direct competitor to JE Vivier.
424
00:22:13.385 --> 00:22:16.045
So you understand that if the family is bringing its
425
00:22:16.435 --> 00:22:19.685
financial power to the evolution of the brand,
426
00:22:20.145 --> 00:22:23.165
it might be a big threat for your own company.
427
00:22:23.905 --> 00:22:26.045
So the company is not performing that well
428
00:22:26.345 --> 00:22:30.125
and there is a major competitor which is reinforcing its
429
00:22:30.125 --> 00:22:31.325
capital at that time.
430
00:22:33.135 --> 00:22:36.435
The consequence for Todd's family is absolutely simple.
431
00:22:36.695 --> 00:22:40.755
You simply have to restructure and strengthen your capital.
432
00:22:41.095 --> 00:22:43.755
You have to secure the shareholder portfolio
433
00:22:44.335 --> 00:22:47.675
and in addition to that, as it's a family business, you have
434
00:22:47.675 --> 00:22:50.795
to be able to properly manage the succession.
435
00:22:52.285 --> 00:22:55.515
There will be a first attempt in 2022,
436
00:22:55.655 --> 00:23:00.275
but it's going to be a failure the company wants to get out
437
00:23:00.375 --> 00:23:04.555
to to squeeze out the stock market to be able to restructure
438
00:23:05.215 --> 00:23:08.995
and the family's going to offer 40 euros per share.
439
00:23:09.215 --> 00:23:10.515
Forces squeeze out.
440
00:23:11.055 --> 00:23:13.715
But in order to be able to perform the squeeze out, you need
441
00:23:13.715 --> 00:23:18.235
to have in your hands more than 90% of the shares,
442
00:23:18.525 --> 00:23:20.195
which is not going to be the case.
443
00:23:20.575 --> 00:23:23.875
So that's why, and it was not successful.
444
00:23:23.945 --> 00:23:28.275
Unfortunately, there will be another risk which is going
445
00:23:28.275 --> 00:23:31.875
to pile up on this commercial and competitive risk.
446
00:23:31.985 --> 00:23:36.035
It's a financial risk, it the balance sheet of the company.
447
00:23:36.135 --> 00:23:37.555
10 years ago there was no debt,
448
00:23:37.555 --> 00:23:40.755
there was more cash than debt, the gearing was negative.
449
00:23:41.495 --> 00:23:45.685
20 17, 20 18, the gearing starts being positive.
450
00:23:46.425 --> 00:23:48.805
How do you evaluate the financial structure of a company?
451
00:23:48.935 --> 00:23:50.045
There are two ratios.
452
00:23:50.045 --> 00:23:52.205
One is a gearing debt divided by equity.
453
00:23:53.025 --> 00:23:55.765
Equity in the books are equity market value,
454
00:23:55.785 --> 00:23:58.605
but as a market to book is one, it's quite the same.
455
00:23:59.265 --> 00:24:03.845
And today the gearing is about 0.5, which is not dramatic,
456
00:24:04.385 --> 00:24:06.765
but there's another ratio which is named the leverage.
457
00:24:07.265 --> 00:24:10.005
How many years of EBITDA do you need to generate in order
458
00:24:10.005 --> 00:24:12.685
to be able to repair the net into raise bearing debt?
459
00:24:13.505 --> 00:24:16.405
It was quite high in 2020 of course,
460
00:24:16.405 --> 00:24:20.445
because the EBITDA was close to zero, it's down later on,
461
00:24:20.445 --> 00:24:24.405
but today it is still more and significantly more than two.
462
00:24:25.105 --> 00:24:28.725
So there is a kind of financial risk which is piling on top
463
00:24:28.725 --> 00:24:30.965
of the commercial and competitive risk.
464
00:24:32.345 --> 00:24:34.085
The second A to restructure
465
00:24:34.145 --> 00:24:37.045
and strengthen the capital is going to be successful
466
00:24:37.845 --> 00:24:42.045
LVMH MO at NC Louis Vuitton controlled
467
00:24:42.145 --> 00:24:45.725
by Bernardo and the AO family is going to enter
468
00:24:45.985 --> 00:24:50.445
and then strengthen its stake in the capital of tos.
469
00:24:52.195 --> 00:24:53.645
This is going to be achieved
470
00:24:53.645 --> 00:24:55.285
through a proposal which is going to be made
471
00:24:55.305 --> 00:24:56.965
by a private equity fund.
472
00:24:57.645 --> 00:25:01.365
L Catton El Catterton is at the end
473
00:25:01.365 --> 00:25:03.765
of the day the Arno family for L
474
00:25:04.385 --> 00:25:07.445
and Catterton, which is a private equity firm created
475
00:25:07.545 --> 00:25:08.765
in 1989.
476
00:25:09.875 --> 00:25:12.365
They merged in 2016,
477
00:25:12.905 --> 00:25:16.925
the Arno family bringing its own private equity vehicle,
478
00:25:17.095 --> 00:25:21.245
which is a the former financier.
479
00:25:21.945 --> 00:25:26.085
So in L Catton, Catton is the private equity initially
480
00:25:26.185 --> 00:25:27.965
and L is LVMH.
481
00:25:29.205 --> 00:25:31.765
Altogether they made very interesting investments
482
00:25:31.785 --> 00:25:33.125
as far as shoes are concerned.
483
00:25:33.125 --> 00:25:36.005
They were the owners of Birken stock,
484
00:25:36.385 --> 00:25:38.165
not exactly the same style.
485
00:25:38.835 --> 00:25:41.885
Birkenstock was listed seven months ago
486
00:25:42.425 --> 00:25:44.205
and from seven months ago to today,
487
00:25:44.205 --> 00:25:47.565
as the stock price went up from 40 to 60 year rate.
488
00:25:47.905 --> 00:25:50.365
So they are quite good at creating value
489
00:25:51.185 --> 00:25:54.125
and more than what happened to Dr.
490
00:25:54.635 --> 00:25:58.445
Martins. It's also shoes, but a kind of different style.
491
00:25:58.905 --> 00:26:02.645
And even though they received a fantastic support from Pete
492
00:26:02.885 --> 00:26:05.925
Townsend, uh, Dr. Martin Stoke price went down
493
00:26:05.985 --> 00:26:08.885
by 80% from its listing to today,
494
00:26:09.055 --> 00:26:10.885
which is not exactly performance.
495
00:26:11.945 --> 00:26:14.125
Now seriously what happens to Todds,
496
00:26:14.215 --> 00:26:16.685
there is a first acquisition of a stake made
497
00:26:16.685 --> 00:26:19.725
by LVMH in 2000 when the company's listed,
498
00:26:20.225 --> 00:26:22.645
but it's quite negligible, 3.2%.
499
00:26:23.355 --> 00:26:25.485
Then the company's going to reinforce
500
00:26:25.545 --> 00:26:28.605
to strengthen its equity stake in 2021
501
00:26:29.305 --> 00:26:32.245
and now LVMH holds 10%.
502
00:26:33.065 --> 00:26:37.645
The reinforcement was made at about 33 euros per share.
503
00:26:39.235 --> 00:26:41.455
The offer, which is made by Catton
504
00:26:41.995 --> 00:26:44.485
is 43 euros per share,
505
00:26:45.215 --> 00:26:47.725
which brings a market capitalization of the company,
506
00:26:47.865 --> 00:26:51.845
the value of equity to one point 54 billion euros.
507
00:26:52.585 --> 00:26:54.685
You add up net financial debt
508
00:26:54.705 --> 00:26:56.205
and you get the enterprise value.
509
00:26:56.545 --> 00:27:00.725
The enterprise value represents 7.8 years
510
00:27:00.985 --> 00:27:04.645
of ebitda, which is a very low multiple.
511
00:27:04.785 --> 00:27:07.525
If you consider that thoughts is for part
512
00:27:07.525 --> 00:27:09.685
of it in a casual shake business
513
00:27:10.065 --> 00:27:12.605
and for part of it in the luxury business
514
00:27:12.635 --> 00:27:14.765
with the JE Vier brand,
515
00:27:15.585 --> 00:27:20.125
now LVMH holds 10% will retain 10%.
516
00:27:20.785 --> 00:27:23.645
El Catton will take 36%
517
00:27:23.865 --> 00:27:25.365
and the De la Vale family
518
00:27:25.915 --> 00:27:29.605
will retain only 54% of the shares.
519
00:27:30.075 --> 00:27:33.445
It's more than 50, but it's less than two thirds.
520
00:27:34.155 --> 00:27:37.845
When it's completed, which is very likely to happen,
521
00:27:38.015 --> 00:27:40.565
there will be a stock market exit
522
00:27:40.785 --> 00:27:44.965
and Tots will become a 100% private firm.
523
00:27:46.585 --> 00:27:49.605
Now, that was about the financial engineering part of it.
524
00:27:49.855 --> 00:27:53.325
Let's have a look at the financial value of tots,
525
00:27:53.415 --> 00:27:55.005
which is the fundamental value
526
00:27:55.005 --> 00:27:58.165
of the company using the discounted free cash flow method.
527
00:27:58.625 --> 00:28:00.485
We are going to evaluate free cash flows
528
00:28:00.485 --> 00:28:02.165
and we'll discount them at the weighted
529
00:28:02.165 --> 00:28:03.205
average cost of capital.
530
00:28:04.225 --> 00:28:06.565
To calculate the work, we need some calculation
531
00:28:06.585 --> 00:28:08.925
and we need to identify the betas,
532
00:28:08.965 --> 00:28:10.605
a systematic risk efficient.
533
00:28:11.185 --> 00:28:12.485
On top of that, we will need
534
00:28:12.485 --> 00:28:14.245
to make some financial assumptions
535
00:28:14.245 --> 00:28:16.525
to calculate the free cash flow, profitability,
536
00:28:17.225 --> 00:28:21.085
EBITDA investment, CapEx, working capital requirement,
537
00:28:21.185 --> 00:28:23.405
and obviously what are the gross rates
538
00:28:23.425 --> 00:28:24.685
during the first period
539
00:28:24.985 --> 00:28:27.405
and for the calculation of the terminal value.
540
00:28:28.375 --> 00:28:29.595
If we look at the evolution
541
00:28:29.595 --> 00:28:33.635
of the beta since the company was listed early years,
542
00:28:34.615 --> 00:28:37.555
that's obvious, huge volatility in the beta,
543
00:28:37.555 --> 00:28:40.435
which does not mean anything on an economic point of view.
544
00:28:41.105 --> 00:28:45.235
Then if you observe what happened during the decay 2010,
545
00:28:46.065 --> 00:28:50.275
basically the beta was quite low around 0.5,
546
00:28:50.805 --> 00:28:51.835
which is quite low
547
00:28:51.835 --> 00:28:54.435
for a company in which you have some luxury brand.
548
00:28:54.745 --> 00:28:58.115
Then it started getting up again at the beginning
549
00:28:58.115 --> 00:28:59.195
of the 2020s
550
00:28:59.975 --> 00:29:03.715
and it went up to one, which is a figure I'm going
551
00:29:03.715 --> 00:29:06.235
to select, but it's quite a high figure.
552
00:29:06.615 --> 00:29:09.435
It leads to a wack of 7%.
553
00:29:09.495 --> 00:29:11.035
Forget about the calculations,
554
00:29:11.495 --> 00:29:14.595
but you understand that taking a beta of one is
555
00:29:15.405 --> 00:29:17.075
maximizing the whack
556
00:29:17.615 --> 00:29:20.635
and at the end of the day is quite pessimistic about the
557
00:29:20.635 --> 00:29:22.595
calculation of the fundamental value.
558
00:29:24.025 --> 00:29:25.685
To calculate the free cash flows
559
00:29:25.865 --> 00:29:27.285
and to discount them, we need
560
00:29:27.285 --> 00:29:28.885
to take some assumptions about growth.
561
00:29:29.665 --> 00:29:31.165
If you look at the last two years,
562
00:29:31.505 --> 00:29:35.205
the growth in the revenues were more than 10%.
563
00:29:36.175 --> 00:29:38.165
Let's consider that it might slow down
564
00:29:38.585 --> 00:29:42.845
and take 8% for the next five years, which is a kind
565
00:29:42.845 --> 00:29:44.725
of growth of 40%.
566
00:29:45.475 --> 00:29:47.365
It's quite reasonable if you consider the
567
00:29:47.365 --> 00:29:48.525
potential of the brand.
568
00:29:49.025 --> 00:29:52.765
To calculate the terminal value, I will take 2%
569
00:29:53.495 --> 00:29:56.285
industrial investment capital expenditures.
570
00:29:56.535 --> 00:30:01.085
Let's take 5% to between four and five.
571
00:30:01.415 --> 00:30:04.485
Let's take the upper per range of the interval.
572
00:30:05.155 --> 00:30:09.165
It's again quite conservative working capital requirement.
573
00:30:09.585 --> 00:30:11.605
It was up and up and up
574
00:30:11.705 --> 00:30:15.485
and it represents today 35% of the revenues.
575
00:30:16.055 --> 00:30:19.045
Let's take the current working capital requirement
576
00:30:19.045 --> 00:30:20.445
and cash conversion cycle
577
00:30:20.835 --> 00:30:23.525
because we are a little bit in luxury business.
578
00:30:23.635 --> 00:30:25.925
It's always about high levels of inventories.
579
00:30:26.145 --> 00:30:30.445
If you want to avoid missing sales ebitda,
580
00:30:31.225 --> 00:30:33.965
EBITDA was down, but let's consider that it remains
581
00:30:33.985 --> 00:30:37.845
and change at the level of 20 23, 20 3%
582
00:30:38.185 --> 00:30:42.245
of revenues without taking into account any potential
583
00:30:42.395 --> 00:30:46.245
synergies between tos, any improvement
584
00:30:46.825 --> 00:30:49.485
in the value, any improvement in the performance,
585
00:30:49.485 --> 00:30:50.725
in the commercial performance.
586
00:30:51.105 --> 00:30:52.725
Now let's have a look at the result.
587
00:30:53.835 --> 00:30:57.335
If we take into consideration all these conservative
588
00:30:57.465 --> 00:31:00.255
parameters, we get to a fun value,
589
00:31:00.255 --> 00:31:01.975
which is 72 euros per share.
590
00:31:02.755 --> 00:31:06.815
You remember that the offer made by Catton was 43 euros,
591
00:31:07.115 --> 00:31:09.615
so there is quite an interesting upside potential,
592
00:31:10.275 --> 00:31:12.615
and this subside potential is quite sensitive
593
00:31:12.615 --> 00:31:14.135
to the EBDA rate.
594
00:31:14.955 --> 00:31:16.775
You remember I took 23%.
595
00:31:17.075 --> 00:31:19.655
If you consider that there might be some improvement
596
00:31:20.355 --> 00:31:22.535
in the commercial performance of the company
597
00:31:22.595 --> 00:31:26.135
and we just increased by 2% from 23 to 25%.
598
00:31:26.405 --> 00:31:28.575
Then the fundamental value is 86.
599
00:31:29.115 --> 00:31:32.655
86 is just twice as much as the price, which is offered
600
00:31:32.715 --> 00:31:35.055
by Ed Catan to buy the shares.
601
00:31:35.635 --> 00:31:37.975
So at the end of the day, there's an sad potential
602
00:31:37.995 --> 00:31:42.335
of say 100%, which is quite good news for
603
00:31:42.955 --> 00:31:44.615
the purchasing family.
604
00:31:46.825 --> 00:31:49.025
A few concluding remarks, let's go back
605
00:31:49.025 --> 00:31:50.025
to the initial question.
606
00:31:50.055 --> 00:31:51.185
What about the timing?
607
00:31:51.725 --> 00:31:52.985
The timing looked great
608
00:31:53.455 --> 00:31:56.785
because Tots is in a period of recovery.
609
00:31:57.205 --> 00:32:00.545
The revenues are up, the EBITDA is improving,
610
00:32:00.845 --> 00:32:04.865
and now it's not fully maybe in the stock price,
611
00:32:04.925 --> 00:32:08.745
but they are no family as identified a potential gold mine.
612
00:32:09.375 --> 00:32:11.745
They take an equity stake, they reinforce,
613
00:32:12.165 --> 00:32:15.785
and at the end of the day they have a significant percentage
614
00:32:15.845 --> 00:32:17.865
of a company, which is quite promising,
615
00:32:18.565 --> 00:32:22.065
but there is another remark which is about families
616
00:32:22.255 --> 00:32:26.105
because it's a family which is purchasing the assets
617
00:32:26.125 --> 00:32:27.225
of another family.
618
00:32:27.415 --> 00:32:31.105
It's family capitalism and it's very much about growth.
619
00:32:31.375 --> 00:32:32.825
It's very much about control,
620
00:32:33.365 --> 00:32:35.825
but it's very much also about the financial power
621
00:32:35.895 --> 00:32:38.505
because what happened to Bernardo,
622
00:32:39.025 --> 00:32:42.325
He went for massive external growth
623
00:32:42.385 --> 00:32:45.525
and he created an empire, which is extremely powerful.
624
00:32:45.585 --> 00:32:49.245
In the meantime, the De La Vale family was quite happy
625
00:32:49.245 --> 00:32:52.485
with the company whose revenues were about 1 billion,
626
00:32:53.305 --> 00:32:56.805
but it's probably not enough to survive in the long term
627
00:32:57.025 --> 00:32:59.125
and especially when you have to deal with
628
00:32:59.695 --> 00:33:02.405
succession plans inside the family.
629
00:33:03.495 --> 00:33:04.285
Thank you very much.
Welcome to this Vidcast, which is devoted to Tots.
Tots is a very well-known brand name, Italian brand name.
In the shoe industry, the company is experiencing some risks and difficulties and wants to reinforce and restructure its capital, so it's going to welcome the R no family indirectly through LVMH Mu with ton and directly through a private equity fund, El Catton, but for the are no family is it the right moment to invest in Todds? Todds is really a family story.
Philippo de Valle.
Initially a shoemaker created a company in 1920.
Then he run the business and he developed it throughout the decades.
In the 1950s, there is a disruption in the business, which is invention of the stiletto, the Stiletto Hill.
It's going to really change the shoe industry.
Now, seventies, eighties, and nineties are a period of international expansion for Tots.
In 1978, the brand name Tots is created.
It's going to be followed by Faye and Hogan respectively in 1986 and 88.
The company is very well known for its moccasin with spikes, with peacocks and it's not exactly luxury, high-end luxury of any kind of luxury, but it's casual chic and a number of very well known people in the royalties or anywhere else are going to wear.
Thoughts.
Lady Diana Princess, car of Monaco, king, Juan, Carlos, Johnny.
Annually in the business and a number of Hollywood people, they are going to transform this brand into something which is widely known.
The company is also going to use the help of very recognized and well-known designers such as Carl Lagerfeld for Hogan.
In order to finance its expansion and its development, the company is going to be listed on the Milano stock exchange in 2000.
At that time, the revenues are exceeding 220 million euros and the company is generating its revenues throughout 68 points of sales.
Thoughts at that time represents almost 60% of the revenues and even though the company decided to go abroad, Italy still represents more than half of the revenues.
The EBITDA margin is absolutely significant with almost 26% of revenues, 57 million euros.
The company is going to issue shares after the IPO.
There are 30 million shares and these shares are offered at 40 euros per share, which basically means the market value of equity of 1.2 billion euros that de Valley family retains.
The control weighs about 73% of the shares post IPO.
As far as the stock price is concerned, this tuition is not very glorious.
Today in 2024, the stock prices is 34 euros per share.
Before the offer made by the Arnold family multiplied by a number of shares outstanding, which is higher than when the company was listed.
The market capitalization is still 1.2 billion euros, but with a lower stock price.
In the meantime, the revenues were multiplied by five.
Total sales today is more than 1.1 billion euros, but if the revenues were multiplied by five, the number of points of sales was multiplied by more than five with 444 points of sales.
Now what does it mean? It means that the revenues per point of sale is down from 3.6 million to 2.5 million euros per point of sales, and in the meantime there was some inflation.
What about the EBITDA margin? It's lower than when the company was listed.
It was 25 point something.
Today it's 22 point something percent of revenues, so the EBITDA is still quite high, especially when you consider that the capital expenditures represent four to 5% of revenues.
The free cashflow is still quite high, but if the stock price is lower than when the capital was listed, when in the meantime the revenues were multiplied by five, it means that there is a matter of trust, of credibility, of ability to secure the future.
This is what is in the minds of investors today.
Now, you should not believe that the stock price was quite stable around 40 euros per share during the whole period.
In fact, during a few years up to the beginning of the subprime crisis, the stock prices fluctuating around 40 euros per share.
The subprime crisis is going to be good news for tots because the company's going to show a fantastic resilience while the economy is collapsing, the company's revenues and profits are up.
The consequences that the stock price of the company is go is skyrocketing and is going to reach In 20 12, 20 13, a maximum of 140 euros and since then there was a dramatic drop in the stock price.
The company is experiencing problems in its revenues, in its profitability and from 20 12 20 13 down to 20 17, 20 18, the stock price is going to go down from 140 to 40 fluctuating since then.
Now that was the evolution of thoughts, stock price standing alone.
What about benchmarking thoughts against a Milano stock exchange? The MIB 30 stock market index, if you look at the last five years, there are two periods, one period from five years ago to end of 2022, more or less thoughts and MIB are moving in the same direction.
Sometimes there is a correlation, sometimes not, but if you look at what happened to Todd's stock price starting at the end of 2022 up to today, its stabilization.
In the meantime, the stock market index was up by about 65%, so the G correlation is very big and it is not very favorable For tots.
That was about the story of the company and its stock market performance.
Let's now deep dive into the economics of this company.
The company is selling three segments, shoes, leather goods and appel.
The relative share of each and every segment is quite stable throughout the years.
If you look at the last 10 years, shoes represent a bit less, a bit more, a bit less than 80%.
Apparel is lower than 10 and leather goods between 10 and 20.
Throughout the years it's quite stable.
What is not stable is the evolution of revenues.
If you look at the evolution of revenues, it was about 1,000,000,010 years ago.
It went up in 2015 and then started to go down gradually year after year up to 2019.
Of course in 2020 there's a major drop in the revenues by 30% because of the covid pandemic, a kind of recovery in 2021.
Now the company is back to 1 billion in 2022, which is good news, but this is just a recovery.
2023 is a very good year with an increase in the revenues by more than 10%, so the company is bouncing back at least in the revenues.
Interestingly, the EB EBITDA is following the same path while second half of the 2010.
The revenues are gradually down.
The current ebitda, a percentage to revenue is also down.
It was about 20% in 2014.
It's down to about 13% in 2018.
There's a major increase in 2019 for very simple reason, which is IFRS 16.
The rents which were paid by the company were no more considered as a cash operating expense in the calculation of the EBDA.
But now these rents are capitalized in the balance sheet.
The right of use assets and the rents are transferred from cash operating expenses to amortization and then as a consequence the EBDA is going to be up, but it's completely an illusion.
2020 it's down to 5% and then there is a kind of recovery of the EBDA, which is today 2220 3%, but take care because now there is no rent in the EBDA calculation.
This is why it's quite interesting to look at the operating expenses item by item cost of raw materials.
10 years ago it was about 30% and today it's a bit less than 25%.
So the cost of raw materials as a percentage to revenues is down.
Is it due to the fact that raw materials are less expensive or to the fact that they put less quality raw materials in the shoes or to the fact that they increase the revenues and the selling prices more than the cost of raw materials? It's an open question, but what is interesting is if you look at the external expenses, what they name cost of services, it's up from a little bit less to 25 to almost 30%.
So what was gained in the cost of raw materials is lost in the cost of services.
What is very interesting to observe is the evolution of staff personal cost.
Personal cost was about 16% 10 years ago and then it went up to 30% in 2020.
Of course it's exaggerated because uh, revenues are down, but the year before it was 23%, then it went down to 23 and today it's about 22 to 23.
So there is a major increase in the personal costs in the labor related expenses.
Now what about the occupancy costs? The occupancy costs are down in 2019 because of IFRS.
Now, if you confront depreciation and amortization throughout the years and occupancy costs, you remember that one is replaced by the other.
At the end of the day, there is no change.
We have looked at the evolution of the EBD as a percentage to revenues mentioning that there is a problem of trade off between rents and depreciation.
Now this trade off does not show in the calculation of the ebit either it's rent or depreciation, but it is an operating expense.
Now if you look at the evolution of EBIT out of revenues, the return on sales, it's down and it's down from 2014 to 20 18, 20 19 down from 15 to about 10%.
Of course there will be a major drop in 2020 again because of the pandemic and then the return on sales is up, but today it's about 8%, so it's roughly the same figure as in 2018, but much less than 2014.
Interestingly, the current EBIT and the EBIT are quite the same, which means that in this company there's not kind of exceptional items which are taken into account.
The calculation of the return on sales after having described the evolution of the commercial profitability is a return on sales, nice time to turn to the assets turnovers, the assets productivity.
Then we'll be able to combine one and the other, multiply one by the other.
We will get the return capital employed, which confronted with the work tells us if the company's performing or not.
As far as assets turnover, let's start with the current assets minus current liability is a working capital requirement.
The cash conversion cycle is very interesting to observe throughout the years.
If you look at the last 10 years, accounts receivable is quite constant.
It's a little bit more than 30 days of revenue, 30 days of sales, which is quite low for a very good reason.
You generate direct sales direct to customers.
So customers are paying cash in the points of sales.
Accounts payable is about 60 days, so you understand that receivables being less than payable.
The difference between these two is contributing to the financing of the inventory level, but the inventories are very high.
More than 130 dayss of revenues and inventory is in the balance sheet.
It's not a matter of revenue, it's a matter of production cost.
So you understand that the company has a huge level of inventories, which is quite normal in the business, which is maybe not exactly luxury, but close to that the casual chic.
So at the end of the day, the cash conversion cycle is up.
Throughout the years it was about 100 days in 2014 it's now 120 days.
So there is a deterioration of the cash conversion cycle, which has a negative impact on the asset's productivity.
Once we have observed the evolution of the cash conversion cycle, which is not that positive, let's have a look at the non-current assets, productivity, non-current means tangibles and intangibles.
Tangibles is about property, plant and equipment and there you have a kind of good news because the companies revenues divided by property plant and equipment is up from 4.5 in 2014 gradually up to 2020 and significantly up because today one Euro invested in manufacturing generates almost eight euros of revenues.
So this is quite good news about the industrial and manufacturing productivity.
Now, if you divide the revenues by the intangible assets, goodwill brands consequence of acquisition, you understand that something happened in 2016 because it dramatically went down.
It is a consequence of an acquisition which I am going to explain a little bit later.
Now, if you combine non Karen and Karen assets working capital requirement, you get the assets turnover.
The assets turnover was 1.5 at the beginning of this period.
It went down in 2016 as a consequence of the acquisition to one and then it stabilized and went down to 0.4, 0.5 and to the 0.6, not because of the acquisition but because of the deterioration of the cash conversion cycle.
If you calculate an asset turnover excluding the goodwill and brands, you get exactly to the same conclusion because if you exclude brands and goodwill, what happens in 2016? Nothing though the assets turnover excluding goodwill and brands is quite stable up to 2017 and then is going to gradually deteriorate as a consequence of the cash conversion cycle, which is deteriorating.
Again, as a conclusion, you observe a deterioration of the cash conversion cycle and also an increase in the intangible assets, goodwill and brands without any corresponding increase in the sales and in the revenues.
Two bad news, the assets turnover is down.
Now we can combine the return on sales and the assets turnover, multiplying one by the other.
We get the DuPont formula, the return on capital employed, the return capital employed was more than 20% in 2014.
You remember at that time the stock price was at its maximum and it started gradually getting down because both return on sales and assets turnover went down.
Obviously in 2020 the return capital is dramatically negative because of the covid pandemic.
Then it's going to go to breakeven in 21, getting up in 22, getting up in 23, but the return capital employed is today 6% before tax.
Obviously it does not pay the whack, so the company is not performing on a financial point of view.
Same of evolution of return on investment as opposed to return capital employed.
What differentiates return on investment and return capital is that in the return on investment you exclude goodwill and brand.
Though what happens of course in 2016 the rose is down because of the acquisition, but in the meantime the return investment is also down year after year.
Then it's going to be strongly negative and it's going to be recovering.
But at the end of the day in 2023, the return capital again is 6%.
The return investment is hardly 8%.
So even though you don't take into account the goodwill and the brand which is accounted starting in 2016, the company is not profitable even if you take only the manufacturing and the economic and the operating performance of the group.
Now, what happened in 2016, the continuation of the family story, the company is acquiring a very well-known brand in the luxury business, not casualty, really luxury business in shoe industry.
Raje, Vivier, they pay 415 million euros for the brand who is selling the brand? A company whose name is Guam consult in marketing, which is a company limited liability company.
What is Guam? Guan is the de Val family because the owners of the company are Andrea, the brother and Diego de Valle, Diego de la Vals, CCEO of Todds Guun is going to reinvest half of the amount, 207000000.5 euros in an equity issue, which is going to be made by Todds.
If Todds had experience at observe an increase in its debt by 400 million, the balance sheet would have been deed.
So as American equity is used for half of the price and the increased debt for the other half of the price, the capital increase is going to be made at the price which is 83.5 euros per share, which is twice as much as a current stock price.
But you understand that it is a D Vale family which is buying from the D Vale family and that's a little bit a question in terms of financial governance and potential conflict of interest.
It's really an issue in terms of credibility.
It's always interesting to confirm the evolution of the return on capital employed and the evolution of the market to book, which is a stock market Credibility of the company market to book is calculated.
Dividing the enterprise value by the capital employed capital employee is how much you invested in business operations and enterprise value is the value of that market.
Capital plus net financial debt and you observe always a kind of parallel evolution of rose and market book.
It's true for any company including thoughts.
The market book of the company was almost four times in 2014.
In 2020 is down to about one.
It's going to go up a little bit in 2021 and today, 20 23, 20 24 before the offer made by the Arnold family.
It's about one.
So there's no good will and there is no bad will.
The company is evaluated exactly at the level which is the amount of money invested in the business operations.
Once you have observed that the dynamics of the rose and the market to book are quite the same.
It's also interesting to calculate the market to book theoretical market to book.
Assuming there is no growth in the free cash flow.
It's simply the rose after tax divided by the wa and you confirm this theoretical market book with the actual market book to try to figure out if there is any potential increase in a rose in the stock price and this is exactly what we can observe.
If you look at the rose after tax and you compare that with the wac, you understand that the rose after tax divided by the wack is less than one, which is what should be the market to book.
Assuming there's no growth, you get a figure which is about 0.5, 0.6.
The actual market to book is more than one, which means that the market probably anticipates that there is a value in the brands and there's a potential for rebound.
So the financial performance and the stock price evolution, it's not very much about good news, but there will be a threat which is going to show on stage a yearly family.
So the holding of the family, which is named Xor in 2021 is investing 541 million euros to buy 24% of the Christian Boutta brand.
Boutta is a direct competitor to JE Vivier.
So you understand that if the family is bringing its financial power to the evolution of the brand, it might be a big threat for your own company.
So the company is not performing that well and there is a major competitor which is reinforcing its capital at that time.
The consequence for Todd's family is absolutely simple.
You simply have to restructure and strengthen your capital.
You have to secure the shareholder portfolio and in addition to that, as it's a family business, you have to be able to properly manage the succession.
There will be a first attempt in 2022, but it's going to be a failure the company wants to get out to to squeeze out the stock market to be able to restructure and the family's going to offer 40 euros per share.
Forces squeeze out.
But in order to be able to perform the squeeze out, you need to have in your hands more than 90% of the shares, which is not going to be the case.
So that's why, and it was not successful.
Unfortunately, there will be another risk which is going to pile up on this commercial and competitive risk.
It's a financial risk, it the balance sheet of the company.
10 years ago there was no debt, there was more cash than debt, the gearing was negative.
20 17, 20 18, the gearing starts being positive.
How do you evaluate the financial structure of a company? There are two ratios.
One is a gearing debt divided by equity.
Equity in the books are equity market value, but as a market to book is one, it's quite the same.
And today the gearing is about 0.5, which is not dramatic, but there's another ratio which is named the leverage.
How many years of EBITDA do you need to generate in order to be able to repair the net into raise bearing debt? It was quite high in 2020 of course, because the EBITDA was close to zero, it's down later on, but today it is still more and significantly more than two.
So there is a kind of financial risk which is piling on top of the commercial and competitive risk.
The second A to restructure and strengthen the capital is going to be successful LVMH MO at NC Louis Vuitton controlled by Bernardo and the AO family is going to enter and then strengthen its stake in the capital of tos.
This is going to be achieved through a proposal which is going to be made by a private equity fund.
L Catton El Catterton is at the end of the day the Arno family for L and Catterton, which is a private equity firm created in 1989.
They merged in 2016, the Arno family bringing its own private equity vehicle, which is a the former financier.
So in L Catton, Catton is the private equity initially and L is LVMH.
Altogether they made very interesting investments as far as shoes are concerned.
They were the owners of Birken stock, not exactly the same style.
Birkenstock was listed seven months ago and from seven months ago to today, as the stock price went up from 40 to 60 year rate.
So they are quite good at creating value and more than what happened to Dr.
Martins.
It's also shoes, but a kind of different style.
And even though they received a fantastic support from Pete Townsend, uh, Dr.
Martin Stoke price went down by 80% from its listing to today, which is not exactly performance.
Now seriously what happens to Todds, there is a first acquisition of a stake made by LVMH in 2000 when the company's listed, but it's quite negligible, 3.2%.
Then the company's going to reinforce to strengthen its equity stake in 2021 and now LVMH holds 10%.
The reinforcement was made at about 33 euros per share.
The offer, which is made by Catton is 43 euros per share, which brings a market capitalization of the company, the value of equity to one point 54 billion euros.
You add up net financial debt and you get the enterprise value.
The enterprise value represents 7.8 years of ebitda, which is a very low multiple.
If you consider that thoughts is for part of it in a casual shake business and for part of it in the luxury business with the JE Vier brand, now LVMH holds 10% will retain 10%.
El Catton will take 36% and the De la Vale family will retain only 54% of the shares.
It's more than 50, but it's less than two thirds.
When it's completed, which is very likely to happen, there will be a stock market exit and Tots will become a 100% private firm.
Now, that was about the financial engineering part of it.
Let's have a look at the financial value of tots, which is the fundamental value of the company using the discounted free cash flow method.
We are going to evaluate free cash flows and we'll discount them at the weighted average cost of capital.
To calculate the work, we need some calculation and we need to identify the betas, a systematic risk efficient.
On top of that, we will need to make some financial assumptions to calculate the free cash flow, profitability, EBITDA investment, CapEx, working capital requirement, and obviously what are the gross rates during the first period and for the calculation of the terminal value.
If we look at the evolution of the beta since the company was listed early years, that's obvious, huge volatility in the beta, which does not mean anything on an economic point of view.
Then if you observe what happened during the decay 2010, basically the beta was quite low around 0.5, which is quite low for a company in which you have some luxury brand.
Then it started getting up again at the beginning of the 2020s and it went up to one, which is a figure I'm going to select, but it's quite a high figure.
It leads to a wack of 7%.
Forget about the calculations, but you understand that taking a beta of one is maximizing the whack and at the end of the day is quite pessimistic about the calculation of the fundamental value.
To calculate the free cash flows and to discount them, we need to take some assumptions about growth.
If you look at the last two years, the growth in the revenues were more than 10%.
Let's consider that it might slow down and take 8% for the next five years, which is a kind of growth of 40%.
It's quite reasonable if you consider the potential of the brand.
To calculate the terminal value, I will take 2% industrial investment capital expenditures.
Let's take 5% to between four and five.
Let's take the upper per range of the interval.
It's again quite conservative working capital requirement.
It was up and up and up and it represents today 35% of the revenues.
Let's take the current working capital requirement and cash conversion cycle because we are a little bit in luxury business.
It's always about high levels of inventories.
If you want to avoid missing sales ebitda, EBITDA was down, but let's consider that it remains and change at the level of 20 23, 20 3% of revenues without taking into account any potential synergies between tos, any improvement in the value, any improvement in the performance, in the commercial performance.
Now let's have a look at the result.
If we take into consideration all these conservative parameters, we get to a fun value, which is 72 euros per share.
You remember that the offer made by Catton was 43 euros, so there is quite an interesting upside potential, and this subside potential is quite sensitive to the EBDA rate.
You remember I took 23%.
If you consider that there might be some improvement in the commercial performance of the company and we just increased by 2% from 23 to 25%.
Then the fundamental value is 86.
86 is just twice as much as the price, which is offered by Ed Catan to buy the shares.
So at the end of the day, there's an sad potential of say 100%, which is quite good news for the purchasing family.
A few concluding remarks, let's go back to the initial question.
What about the timing? The timing looked great because Tots is in a period of recovery.
The revenues are up, the EBITDA is improving, and now it's not fully maybe in the stock price, but they are no family as identified a potential gold mine.
They take an equity stake, they reinforce, and at the end of the day they have a significant percentage of a company, which is quite promising, but there is another remark which is about families because it's a family which is purchasing the assets of another family.
It's family capitalism and it's very much about growth.
It's very much about control, but it's very much also about the financial power because what happened to Bernardo, He went for massive external growth and he created an empire, which is extremely powerful.
In the meantime, the De La Vale family was quite happy with the company whose revenues were about 1 billion, but it's probably not enough to survive in the long term and especially when you have to deal with succession plans inside the family.
Thank you very much.